Tania Apolinar and Giovanni Cervantes Pivot to Seafood at El Camarón Peludo

Close-up of dark squid ink salsa with red chili flecks in a ceramic bowl.

⏱ 2 min read

The Short Version

The duo behind Taqueria Ramirez has traded roasted meats for the high-stakes precision of Mexican seafood and natural wines. From squid ink salsas to Sinaloan shrimp, El Camarón Peludo delivers a visceral West Village experience where coastal flavors meet global pours.

Tania Apolinar and Giovanni Cervantes, the duo behind Taqueria Ramirez’s roasted meats, have shifted their focus toward the coast. Partnering with chef Carlos Barrera, they opened El Camarón Peludo in the West Village, a space where Mexican seafood meets an international selection of natural wines. Each day begins with de-shelling and de-veining fresh shrimp from Sinaloa, Mexico, and Ecuador for three central dishes.

Cervantes explains that his original idea to pair the innovative seafood plates with bubbly wine turned into a natural wine bar.

Precision in the raw bar

The kitchen’s workflow is defined by high-stakes consistency. Giovanni Cervantes manages the salsa production, taste-testing every batch against previous weeks to ensure the profile remains unchanged. This attention to detail extends to the complex sauces that anchor their signature dishes. For the camarones zarandeados—a shrimp variation of a Pacific coast classic traditionally grilled in a flat wire basket—the team mixes a bright red salsa with mayo to create its essential coating.

The menu moves between traditional structures and modern compositions. Chef Barrera breaks down Spanish tuna for a creative tostada layered with spicy mayo, fish eggs, habanero-lime oil, avocado, and crispy leeks. Cervantes explains that his original idea to pair the innovative seafood plates with bubbly wine turned into a natural wine bar. Instead of just sparkling pours, the bar now sources bottles from all over the world to match the food’s intensity.

Textures of the Mexican coast

Prep work at El Camarón Peludo covers a wide spectrum of textures, from the crunch of a deep-fried pescadilla to the softness of shrimp tacos topped with queso fresco, refried beans, and roasted poblano peppers. The raw bar’s identity centers on two striking salsas: a bright parsley-based salsa verde and a deep, moody salsa negro—a high-contrast blend of habaneros, piquin chile, and squid ink.

Upstairs, Apolinar manages the front-of-house transition, chilling wine bottles and displaying fresh seafood on ice in the window. While the service is polished, the experience remains visceral; Apolinar suggests sitting at the long, winding bar to watch the bartenders and chefs work in real time. It is an immersive way to see exactly how every aguachile comes together.

Do you prefer pairing spicy seafood with sparkling or still wines?

Questions & Answers

What kind of seafood is served at El Camarón Peludo?

El Camarón Peludo specializes in Mexican seafood featuring fresh shrimp sourced from Sinaloa, Mexico, and Ecuador. The menu includes a variety of preparations such as camarones zarandeados, which are shrimp variations of a Pacific coast classic, and creative Spanish tuna tostadas. Guests can also enjoy textures ranging from crunchy deep-fried pescadias to soft shrimp tacos topped with queso fresco, refried beans, and roasted poblano peppers. The kitchen maintains high standards by de-shelling and de-veining fresh shrimp every single day.

How does El Camarón Peludo ensure consistency in its sauces?

The restaurant maintains sauce consistency through a rigorous taste-testing process managed by Giovanni Cervantes. Every batch of salsa produced is compared against previous weeks to ensure the flavor profile remains exactly the same. This meticulous attention to detail is crucial for anchoring signature dishes like the camarones zarandeados, which requires a specific bright red salsa and mayo coating. This disciplined workflow ensures that the complex sauces, including the parsley-based salsa verde and the squid ink salsa negro, remain reliable for every guest.

What is the wine selection like at El Camarón Peludo?

The establishment functions as a natural wine bar that offers an international selection of bottles to complement its seafood. While the concept originally began as a way to pair innovative plates with bubbly wine, the menu has expanded to include pours from all over the world. These selections are specifically chosen to match the flavor intensity of the Mexican seafood dishes. Tania Apolinar manages the front-of-house transition by ensuring all wine bottles are properly chilled and ready for service.

Where is the best place to sit at El Camarón Peludo for an immersive experience?

Sitting at the long, winding bar provides the most immersive dining experience at El Camarón Peludo. This vantage point allows guests to watch the bartenders and chefs work in real time as they prepare various dishes. By sitting at the bar, diners can witness the precise assembly of every aguachile and see the high-stakes consistency of the kitchen firsthand. This setup turns the meal into a visceral experience where the preparation of the seafood becomes part of the entertainment.


Originally reported by Eater.

By ADMIN@CoffeeWineTea.com

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