⏱ 1 min read
The Short Version
Elizabeth Gabay MW celebrated 40 years in Provence’s wine world, highlighting the region’s shift from reds and whites to global rosé fame while honoring its diverse legacy. She and her son bridge past and future with a new book, showcasing Provence’s evolving identity and enduring traditions.
In This Article
This is worth savoring: Elizabeth Gabay MW celebrated four decades in Provence’s wine world with a dinner that showcased the region’s evolving legacy. At Porte Noire, she and her son Ben Bernheim poured vintages that traced Provence’s transformation—from reds and whites to the global rosé phenomenon. The evening was more than a tribute to the past; it was a reflection on how the region’s identity has evolved.
Provence was a very different place in the mid-1980s, where reds and whites were the stars.
More Than Just Rosé
Gabay described the event as a “celebration,” but it was also a rebuttal to the idea that Provence is solely defined by its pink wines. “Provence was a very different place in the mid-1980s, where reds and whites were the stars,” she said, stressing that the region’s first appellations—Cassis and Bandol—were built on whites and reds. At the table, Domaine de Trevallon’s 2
The Old and the New
Gabay, calling herself “a dinosaur,” contrasted her vintage perspective with her son’s modern approach. Their new book, The Wines of Provence, aims to bridge both worlds—capturing the region’s history while charting its future. The dinner’s lineup, featuring Château de Mille’s Luberon terroir and Château Minuty’s full range beyond rosé, underscored that Provence’s appeal lies in its diversity. Even the rare vin cuit from Château de Saint Martin, a Provençal dessert wine reduced over wood fire, hinted at traditions still alive. Climate change is reshaping the region’s vineyards, prompting both innovation and adaptation in preserving its heritage.
Provence was a very different place in the mid-1980s, where reds and whites were the stars.
What traditions will survive—and what new ones will emerge—as Provence continues to evolve?
Questions & Answers
How has Provence's wine identity changed over the past 40 years?
Provence's wine identity has evolved from a focus on reds and whites to a global recognition of its rosé wines. Elizabeth Gabay MW noted that in the mid-1980s, the region was defined by its whites and reds, with appellations like Cassis and Bandol. Today, rosé dominates, yet the region's diversity, including full-bodied reds and dessert wines, remains a key part of its legacy.
What role does climate change play in Provence's wine evolution?
Climate change is reshaping Provence's vineyards, prompting innovation and adaptation to preserve its heritage. The region is responding with new techniques and varieties while maintaining traditional practices, such as the rare *vin cuit* from Château de Saint Martin, which highlights enduring traditions alongside modern changes.
How does Elizabeth Gabay MW view the rise of rosé in Provence?
Elizabeth Gabay MW sees the rise of rosé as a natural evolution rather than a limitation. She emphasized that Provence was once known for reds and whites, with its first appellations built on these varietals. The global rosé phenomenon reflects the region's adaptability, while still honoring its rich history of diverse wines.
What does the new book *The Wines of Provence* aim to achieve?
*The Wines of Provence* aims to bridge Provence's past and future by capturing its history while charting its evolving identity. Written by Elizabeth Gabay MW and her son Ben Bernheim, the book highlights the region's diversity, from full-bodied reds and whites to rare dessert wines, showing how tradition and innovation coexist in Provence's wine world.
Originally reported by The Drinks Business.
