Spain’s wine scene is quietly rewriting its script. Behind the Rioja and Ribera del Duero headlines, a wave of under-the-radar regions and forgotten styles is gaining traction. During a recent Taste Spain panel, two industry insiders—Ferran Centelles, ex-sommelier at El Bulli, and Maria Naranjo, ICEX’s food and drink director—spilled the latest intel on Spain’s hidden gems. Their insights? A blend of ancient traditions, bold experimentation, and regions waiting to break through.
For Naranjo, the northwestern spotlight fell on Galicia’s Ribeiro, where Godello, Albariño, and Loureira deliver crisp, mineral-driven whites. But her focus shifted to La Manchuela, a 2000s-born region in La Mancha’s shadow. Here, high-altitude Bobal vines craft wines that defy expectations—earthy, textured, and brimming with wild character. “This is a very special region,” she said, “offering something different to the world.” The contrast between La Manchuela’s rugged charm and La Mancha’s ancient Airen vines highlights Spain’s diversity, where old and new coexist.
Centelles added layers to the conversation, pointing to Catalonia’s Xarel·lo—a grape with “high voltage” acidity and a bitterness that’s “super, super interesting.” He also praised Jerez’s revival of unfortified wines, calling them “very promising” and already gracing top tables. For reds, Garnacha from Navarra and Mencía from Bierzo’s refined expressions stood out. But the real surprise? A historic style reborn: clarete.
Centelles called it “a very important name,” noting the term “rosé” didn’t exist in Spain until the 20th century. Clarete, a co-fermented blend of red and white grapes, is now a star in high-end Spanish kitchens. Cigales’ versions—Tempranillo, Garnacha, Verdejo, and Albillo co-fermented—deliver bold, structured rosés that “I see as the future of Spanish Rosado.”
Clarete, a centuries-old style, is redefining rosé with its complexity and depth.
Key points: Spain’s wine map is expanding beyond Rioja and Ribera del Duero, with La Manchuela and Ribeiro leading the charge. Clarete, a centuries-old style, is redefining rosé with its complexity and depth. And while Priorat may soon join Spain’s elite regions, the real magic lies in the overlooked.
What’s one Spanish wine region you’d love to see rise in global acclaim?
Questions & Answers
What are Spain’s hidden wine regions?
Galicia’s Ribeiro and La Manchuela are overlooked regions. Ribeiro offers crisp whites like Godello, while La Manchuela’s high-altitude Bobal produces earthy, textured wines.
What’s special about La Manchuela wines?
La Manchuela’s high-altitude Bobal vines create earthy, textured wines. This region, born in the 2000s, defies expectations with bold, unique expressions.
Information sourced from industry reports and news outlets.
