Viognier’s survival story is a lesson in resilience—and a celebration of spring. Once on the brink of extinction, this floral white wine now commands reverence for its boldness and complexity. The Rhône Valley’s Condrieu appellation, in particular, has become its spiritual home, crafting wines that feel like a sun-drenched garden in a glass. This week’s Tasting Challenge zeroes in on French Viognier, a grape that defied near-erasure to become one of the most thrilling wines of the season.
The stakes were high in the 1960s. With fewer than 30 acres of Viognier planted globally, growers had largely abandoned it. The grape’s fickle nature—low yields, delicate aromas, and high alcohol demands—made it a gamble. Yet, a sudden surge of interest in the 1970s saved it. Today, it thrives in France, California, Australia, and beyond, but the Rhône remains its gold standard. Condrieu’s steep, stony hills force the vines to work hard, resulting in a wine that’s both explosive and refined. Think of it as Chardonnay’s boldest cousin, with a body that feels almost oily and a perfume of honeysuckle, mango, and anise.
The challenge’s pick? A medium-gold Viognier from the Rhône, priced to please. Its alcohol warmth is undeniable, a fiery undercurrent that pairs with citrus rind and dried flowers. It’s a wine that demands attention, yet rewards with layers of tropical fruit and spice. Pairing it is an art—roast chicken with herbs and citrus, or baked brie with stone fruits, work best. The key is to balance its intensity with something equally aromatic.
Viognier’s magic lies in its contradictions. A grape that’s both delicate and bold, floral and fiery, it’s a testament to nature’s unpredictability. Its revival is a reminder that even the most fragile things can flourish with the right care. If spring feels like a question, Viognier is the answer.
The Rhône’s Condrieu and Côte Rôtie regions produce its most iconic expressions, blending floral grace with bold structure.
Key points: French Viognier’s survival hinged on a 1970s renaissance, not just its natural resilience. The Rhône’s Condrieu and Côte Rôtie regions produce its most iconic expressions, blending floral grace with bold structure. Pair it with aromatic, high-protein dishes to balance its intensity.
What’s your go-to Viognier pairing? Share your favorite way to enjoy this springtime sipper.
Questions & Answers
How does French Viognier taste?
French Viognier is floral, with stone fruit notes like peach and apricot. It’s soft, medium-bodied, and has a subtle citrus finish.
What food pairs with French Viognier?
Pair with seafood, salads, poultry, or creamy cheeses. Its lightness complements delicate dishes well.
Information sourced from industry reports and news outlets.
