⏱ 2 min read
The Short Version
Shanghai’s natural wine scene is rebelling, led by Franklin Chiang’s Bunch, turning wine into a cultural movement where style and community trump tradition. Chiang’s events blend music, fashion, and rare vintages, redefining natural wine as a lifestyle statement.
In This Article
If you haven’t heard yet, Shanghai’s natural wine scene is undergoing a quiet revolution. Franklin Chiang, the self-proclaimed “Wine Thug Frankie,” is leading the charge with Bunch, a biannual event that’s transformed into a cultural phenomenon. When Chiang and his partners first pitched Bunch in 2’t, they asked for wine, money, and trust. They got all three—eight hundred attendees showed up instead of the expected 500. Two years later, Bunch is a staple, with plans for two events in 2025: one focused on mid-to-high altitude wines, another more expansive. It’s not just about the vino.
“Natural wine is never just about the product.”
The Event That Became a Movement
Bunch is Chiang’s brainchild, born from his disillusionment with the natural wine market after quitting Moët Hennessy Diageo in 2021. He imported French wines, tried his hand at a label, and hosted masterclasses that drew curious crowds. The 2024 event was a party of contradictions—food, music, and wines spanning biodynamic to organic. But it was more than a gathering. Chiang’s vision was to build a community where natural wine isn’t just consumed but lived. “People dress up for Bunch,” he says. “You won’t see them do that for Vinexpo or ProWine.” The event’s success hinges on its ability to make wine feel like a cultural statement, not just a product.
The Culture Behind the Glass
Chiang’s latest project, Down To Earth, tests this theory. A five-seater bar in Shanghai, it’s a space where strangers bond over rotating natural wines and vinyl. “The intimacy forces interaction,” Chiang says. “We want people to come alone but leave with new friends.” Unlike conventional wine bars, DTE prioritizes vibe over pedigree. Customers don’t ask about terroir; they’re there for the culture. “Almost no one at DTE asks about terroir… they come for the whole culture behind it.” This friction between tradition and subculture is what keeps natural wine from mainstream shelves—where it’s rarely found, despite its association with Shanghai’s chic bistros.
“Natural wine is never just about the product.”
What happens when the cool kids outgrow their niche? Chiang believes awareness will spread, but e-commerce’s demand for consistency and refunds poses a hurdle. Still, he’s unfazed. “If no one shows up to Bunch, my friends and we’ll still have fun.” So what’s next for natural wine in a market that values both tradition and rebellion?
Questions & Answers
How did Franklin Chiang's Bunch event transform into a cultural phenomenon?
Franklin Chiang’s Bunch evolved from a small wine event into a cultural movement by blending natural wine with music, food, and fashion. The 2024 event attracted over 800 attendees, far exceeding initial expectations, and became a space where people dressed up and engaged with wine as a lifestyle. Chiang’s vision centered on creating a community where natural wine is lived, not just consumed.
What is the concept behind Franklin Chiang’s Down To Earth bar?
Down To Earth is a five-seater bar in Shanghai that fosters intimacy and connection through natural wines and vinyl. Unlike traditional wine bars, it prioritizes vibe over wine pedigree, encouraging strangers to bond over rotating natural wines. The space is designed to make people come alone but leave with new friends, emphasizing cultural interaction over technical details.
Why is natural wine considered a subculture in Shanghai?
Natural wine is seen as a subculture in Shanghai because it’s associated with a lifestyle rather than mainstream consumption. Events like Bunch and spaces like Down To Earth highlight its cultural appeal, where people engage with wine as a statement of taste and identity. This friction with traditional wine markets keeps it niche, despite its presence in chic bistros.
How does Bunch differ from traditional wine events?
Bunch differs from traditional wine events by blending wine with music, food, and fashion to create a cultural experience. Attendees dress up, and the focus is on community and lifestyle rather than just wine tasting. Chiang’s event transforms wine into a statement of identity, making it more than a product and less about technical details like terroir.
Originally reported by The Drinks Business.
