⏱ 1 min read
The Short Version
A sommelier is redefining Mexican wine in Puebla by blending tradition with innovation, curating 200 labels to elevate regional terroir and create seamless food-wine pairings.
In This Article
There’s a seismic shift in Puebla’s dining scene, driven by Jonathan Robles Bravo, the sommelier at Mural de los Poblanos. By reimagining Mexican wine through a curated lens, he’s not just elevating the drink—he’s reshaping the conversation around regional terroir and tradition. With over 200 labels on his list, spanning Baja’s crisp whites to highland sparkling marvels, Robles is building a legacy of taste that’s as rooted in history as it is in innovation.
“The freshness and dryness on the palate create an ideal contrast for these two emblematic dishes of Puebla cuisine.”
The Sommelier’s Blueprint
Robles’s career began in the kitchen, where he first understood the chemistry between wine and food. Now, he’s a master of terroir, pairing regional dishes with wines that echo their depth and character. His program at Mural de los Poblanos is less about trends and more about intention. “I choose wines that enhance the natural complexity of the cuisine,” he explains, highlighting how local ingredients and vintage come together to create a seamless experience. For dishes like chile en nogada—a dish as rich as it is symbolic—he turns to sparkling wines. “The freshness and dryness on the palate create an ideal contrast,” he says, a philosophy that turns tradition into a refined experience.
Pairing Tradition with Modernity
The restaurant’s seven-season slow-food philosophy mirrors Robles’s belief in thoughtful, sustainable dining. Yet his approach is fearless. Mole poblano, with its intricate blend of spices and nuts, calls for a wine that can balance its intensity. “Whether with Champagne or a Mexican sparkling, the contrast is undeniable,” he notes. For guests accustomed to beer or tequila, this pairing is more than a choice—it’s a revelation, offering a new way to experience Puebla’s culinary heritage.
“The freshness and dryness on the palate create an ideal contrast for these two emblematic dishes of Puebla cuisine.”
Robles’s work isn’t just about wine—it’s about fostering Puebla’s wine industry, giving local producers a platform to showcase their craft on a global stage. What’s your go-to pairing for a dish that’s as rich as it is iconic? Share your take below.
Questions & Answers
How does Jonathan Robles Bravo elevate Mexican wine in Puebla’s dining scene?
Jonathan Robles Bravo elevates Mexican wine by curating over 200 regional labels, from Baja’s crisp whites to highland sparkling wines. His approach focuses on pairing local dishes with wines that enhance their natural complexity, transforming tradition into a refined experience.
What role does terroir play in Jonathan Robles Bravo’s wine selection?
Terroir plays a central role in Robles Bravo’s wine selection, as he prioritizes regional wines that reflect the unique characteristics of Puebla’s landscape. This connection between land and drink enhances the depth of local dishes, creating a seamless culinary experience.
Why is pairing mole poblano with sparkling wine significant?
Pairing mole poblano with sparkling wine is significant because the wine’s freshness and dryness contrast the dish’s rich, complex flavors. This contrast highlights the dish’s depth while offering a refined, unexpected way to experience Puebla’s culinary heritage.
Can you give an example of how Jonathan Robles Bravo blends tradition with modernity?
Jonathan Robles Bravo blends tradition with modernity by serving chile en nogada with sparkling wines, using their crispness to balance the dish’s richness. This approach redefines traditional pairings, offering guests a new perspective on Puebla’s cuisine through thoughtful wine selection.
Originally reported by MICHELIN Guide.
