⏱ 2 min read
The Short Version
The Adragane family is intentionally bypassing Alcamo DOC regulations to protect their commitment to natural winemaking. By rejecting rigid appellation standards, Criante produces uncompromised, site-specific wines that prioritize raw terroir over mandated interventions.
The Adragane family has farmed western Sicily for generations, but it was in 2019 that their agricultural work coalesced into Criante. Based in Alcamo, the estate manages roughly 15 hectares of vines split across two locations alongside an equal amount of land dedicated to other crops. While they operate within the geographic boundaries of the Alcamo DOC, the producers intentionally bypass its regulations. They avoid the appellation because the specific winemaking interventions required by DOC rules conflict with their commitment to natural production methods.
Pear, peach and some mint, with a nice bitter twist to the palate, and some almond character.
Texture through site specificity
Criante’s portfolio relies heavily on distinct vineyard sites to drive variety in profile and texture. At Contrada Valle, the Catarratto expresses significant intensity; the C24 2024 displays pear, peach, and almond notes, earning a 94/100. When the same site’s fruit undergoes skin maceration for eight days, as seen in the C21 M 2021, the profile shifts toward mint and a characteristic bitter twist. Pear, peach and some mint, with a nice bitter twist to the palate, and some almond character. The Perricone from this same location, the P22 2022, offers a different direction, presenting a sweetly aromatic profile with ripe berries, cherry, and a slightly oxidative edge.
The seaside proximity of Contrada Modica defines the G24 2024 Grillo, which delivers an open, fine structure defined by lemon, pear, and a distinct chalkiness. Even the heavier reds maintain a sense of balance through controlled aging. For example, the N22 2022 Nero d’Avola spends six months in large barrels, resulting in bright cherry fruit tempered by a savoury, bitter finish.
Complexity in blending and aging
Beyond single-varietal expressions, Criante uses wood and blending to explore deeper complexity. The Rossocriante 2020—a blend of 50% Perricone and 50% Nero d’Avola—is aged in new barriques to develop a spicy, earthy nose. This approach yields a palate that feels both ripe and evolved. In contrast, the lighter side of the estate is represented by the Catarratto Frizzante Niente Panico Pet Nat 2024, which balances crisp citrus and white peach against a yeasty richness. By rejecting DOC-mandated interventions, the Adragane family ensures their wines remain uncompromised reflections of their terroir.
Do you think strict appellation rules help or hinder the rise of natural wine producers in traditional regions?
Questions & Answers
Why does the Adragane family avoid using the Alcamo DOC designation for their wines?
The Adragane family rejects the Alcamo DOC standards because the specific winemaking interventions required by the appellation regulations conflict with their commitment to natural production. By operating outside these strict rules, the producers at Criante can ensure their wines remain uncompromised reflections of their specific terroir. This decision allows them to prioritize their natural methods over the mandatory technical requirements that come with official DOC certification in the western Sicily region.
How does the location of the vineyards influence the flavor profiles of Criante wines?
Vineyard site specificity drives the variety in texture and flavor profiles across the Criante portfolio. For example, the seaside proximity of the Contrada Modica site defines the G24 2024 Grillo, giving it a fine structure characterized by lemon, pear, and a distinct chalkiness. Meanwhile, the fruit from the Contrada Valle site produces different results depending on processing, ranging from intense pear and peach notes in the C24 to minty, bitter profiles when skin maceration is applied.
What are the tasting notes for the Rossocriante 2020 blend?
The Rossocriante 2020 features a spicy and earthy nose due to its aging process in new barriques. This specific wine is a blend consisting of 50% Perricone and 50% Nero d’Avola, which helps create a complex profile. The combination of these two varieties and the use of wood results in a palate that feels both ripe and evolved, offering a deeper level of complexity than many of the estate's single-varietal expressions.
Which wine varieties does the Criante estate produce in western Sicily?
The Criante estate produces a variety of wines using several distinct grape types including Catarratto, Perricone, Grillo, and Nero d’Avola. Their portfolio includes single-varietal expressions like the C24 Catarratto and the N22 Nero d’Avola, as well as unique blends and styles. For instance, they offer the Rossocriante, which blends Perricone and Nero d’Avola, and the Catarratto Frizzante Niente Panico, a Pet Nat that balances citrus and white peach with a yeasty richness.
Originally reported by Wine Anorak.
