⏱ 2 min read
The Short Version
Forget formal sommelier training; Jade Ayala builds James Beard-nominated beverage programs through anthropological inquiry rather than rote certification. By treating spirits as vessels for global history, she transforms cocktails into storytelling partners that bridge the gap between seasonal terroir and cultural tradition.
In This Article
Jade Ayala began her career as a busser at a Hartford farm-to-table restaurant, stepping into bartending without knowing how to craft a single cocktail. Today, she serves as beverage director for Mystic, Connecticut’s Port of Call and Oyster Club—establishments that earned James Beard Award semifinalist status for Outstanding Wine & Beverage program in 2025 and finalist honors in 2026. Eschewing formal sommelier accreditation, Ayala approaches her work through a lens of deep inquiry rather than rote certification. It’s more a study in anthropology than a beverage.
It’s more a study in anthropology than a beverage.
Seasonality and Terroir
At Port of Call, which Ayala helped open in 2022, the drink program is inextricably linked to the kitchen’s seasonal rhythms. This requires maintaining direct relationships with local and regional farmers to navigate the transitory nature of high-quality ingredients. Ayala views these partnerships as a lesson in timing, noting that farmers provide seasons rather than just raw materials. This connection informs a menu where cocktails interpret specific flavor profiles to complement the food, often pushing the boundaries of typical bistro offerings. For instance, she utilizes Pisco and Chicha Morada foam to reference Callao, Peru, or integrates tamari and sweet miso to honor Gifu, Japan.
The goal is a cohesive narrative where the bar does not merely orbit the food but acts as an equal partner in storytelling. By treating wine and spirits as vessels for history and tradition, she ensures each drink extends the restaurant’s maritime-themed premise. While working alongside partner Reneé Touponce—the restaurant’s executive chef, co-owner, and fellow James Beard finalist—Ayala maintains a focus on how flavor composition can bridge the gap between different global seaports.
Hospitality Without Judgment
Beyond the technicality of the pour, Ayala’s leadership is defined by her commitment to the 85th Day Food Community, the parent group behind her restaurants. She actively produces community-focused events, such as Port of Call’s recurring Sea Queen drag show, to ensure the venues remain inclusive spaces. For Ayala, success is measured by the atmosphere as much as the acidity in a glass. She believes hospitality must be entirely free of judgment to truly succeed. This philosophy transforms the beverage program from a simple service into a joyful, communal experience that welcomes all corners of the neighborhood.
How do you define the line between a cocktail that complements a dish and one that tells its own independent story?
Questions & Answers
What are the achievements of Jade Ayala's beverage programs?
Jade Ayala's beverage programs at Port of Call and Oyster Club earned James Beard Award semifinalist status for Outstanding Wine & Beverage program in 2025 and finalist honors in 2026. These achievements reflect her unique approach to beverage direction, which focuses on anthropological curiosity rather than traditional sommelier certification. By treating spirits and wine as vessels for history and tradition, she has helped elevate these Mystic, Connecticut establishments to national recognition within the culinary industry.
How does Jade Ayala incorporate seasonality into her cocktail menus?
Jade Ayala incorporates seasonality by maintaining direct relationships with local and regional farmers to align drink menus with the kitchen's seasonal rhythms. She views these agricultural partnerships as essential lessons in timing, treating farmers as providers of specific seasons rather than just raw materials. This connection allows her to create cocktails that interpret specific flavor profiles to complement the food, such as using ingredients that reflect the transitory nature of high-quality, locally sourced produce.
Why does Jade Ayala use global ingredients in her beverage compositions?
Jade Ayala uses global ingredients to create a cohesive narrative that bridges the gap between different international seaports. By integrating unique flavors like Pisco and Chicha Morada foam to reference Callao, Peru, or tamari and sweet miso to honor Gifu, Japan, she turns the bar into an equal partner in the restaurant's storytelling. This method allows the beverage program to extend the maritime-themed premise of the restaurant through deep historical and cultural references.
How does Jade Ayala approach hospitality and community engagement?
Jade Ayala approaches hospitality through a commitment to inclusivity and judgment-free service to ensure her venues remain communal spaces. She actively produces community-focused events, such as the recurring Sea Queen drag show at Port of Call, to foster a welcoming atmosphere for all neighbors. For Ayala, true success in hospitality is measured by the joy and inclusivity of the social experience as much as the technical quality of the drinks being served.
Originally reported by VinePair.
