⏱ 2 min read
The Short Version
By treating winemaking like a scientific deconstruction rather than following tradition, 00 Wines uses radical methods—like producing "black Chardonnay"—to engineer perfection. This analytical rigor earned them a coveted spot on the wine list at The French Laundry.
Chris Hermann was a lawyer and Kathryn Hermann worked in tech startups before they decided to build a winery from scratch. Eschewing the traditional prestige of multi-generational estates or expensive winemaking degrees, the duo launched 00 Wines in 2015 with a “beginner’s mind.” Rather than buying a vineyard and working within its existing constraints, they treated winemaking like a scientific deconstruction. They assembled a massive matrix of variables—elevation, soil type, clones, and orientation—to systematically engineer their ideal expression of Chardonnay.
Much of what we do is not typical and sort of idiosyncratic.
Engineering the Perfect Profile
The couple’s approach is defined by a refusal to accept industry defaults. This systematic method was deeply personal for Chris; his father was an esteemed plant geneticist at Oregon State, an influence that drew him toward the scientific method. He applied this rigor to the cellar, testing everything from sedimentary to volcanic soils instead of committing to a single plot. This analytical drive extends into unconventional techniques like “black Chardonnay,” which involves maximizing oxygen exposure early on, turning the juice a dark, murky brown before it eventually clarifies into a brilliant gold. Much of what we do is not typical and sort of idiosyncratic. Such experimentation allows them to capture a specific texture and energy that distinguishes their work from more standard Willamette Valley offerings.
To refine their vision, the Hermanns tapped specialized expertise, including consulting winemaker Pierre Millemann and Léa Lafon, who brings deep roots from Burgundy’s Meursault region. While the process is highly technical, the goal remains sensory. They even used blind tastings against legendary producers like Coche-Dury to prove their quality to skeptical sommeliers. That persistence paid off when the head sommelier at The French Laundry requested a case of every SKU after tasting their bottles via corkage in 2020.
Scaling Without Losing Identity
Since those early days of 250 cases with spray-painted labels, 00 Wines has grown to approximately 5,000 cases in Oregon. Even as they expand, Chris and Kathryn remain hands-on with every detail of production and sales. The pair has also extended their reach beyond Oregon, establishing footprints in both Burgundy and Champagne to further explore the limits of the Chardonnay grape.
While they produce focused Pinot Noir, their primary mission is proving the global potential of the Willamette Valley. Kathryn Hermann notes that while Burgundy’s great terroirs are well-documented, the best sites in Oregon are still being discovered. By hosting dinners from Charleston to Singapore, 00 Wines serves as a high-profile advocate for a region still defining its greatest vineyards.
Do you think a lack of traditional wine industry background provides a creative advantage or a steep disadvantage?
Questions & Answers
What is the winemaking philosophy behind 00 Wines?
The winemaking philosophy of 00 Wines is rooted in a scientific deconstruction of variables to engineer an ideal expression of Chardonnay. Instead of following traditional estate models, founders Chris and Kathryn Hermann use a systematic matrix of elevation, soil type, clones, and orientation to guide their production. This analytical approach allows them to eschew industry defaults and experiment with unconventional techniques. By treating the cellar like a laboratory, they aim to capture a unique texture and energy that distinguishes their wines from standard Willamette Valley offerings.
How does the "black Chardonnay" technique work?
The black Chardonnay technique involves maximizing oxygen exposure during the early stages of the winemaking process. This specific method causes the juice to turn a dark, murky brown color before it eventually clarifies into a brilliant gold. This idiosyncratic approach is part of a larger pattern of experimentation used by the Hermanns to move beyond typical regional styles. By utilizing such unconventional methods, the winery is able to achieve a specific sensory profile and energy that sets their work apart from more traditional producers.
Why did the head sommelier at The French Laundry order 00 Wines?
The head sommelier at The French Laundry ordered a case of every SKU after tasting the wines via corkage in 2020. This high-profile endorsement followed a period where the founders used blind tastings against legendary producers like Coche-Dury to prove their quality to skeptical experts. Such rigorous testing helped validate their technical process and sensory goals. This recognition served as a major milestone for the winery, helping to transition them from their early days of small-scale production with spray-painted labels to a more established presence.
How has 00 Wines expanded its production and reach since its launch?
00 Wines has grown from producing 250 cases with spray-painted labels to approximately 5,000 cases in Oregon. Beyond increasing their volume, Chris and Kathryn Hermann have expanded their international footprint by establishing a presence in both Burgundy and Champagne. This expansion allows them to further explore the limits of the Chardonnay grape across different global terroirs. Additionally, the founders act as advocates for the Willamette Valley by hosting high-profile dinners in locations ranging from Charleston to Singapore to promote Oregon's viticultural potential.
Originally reported by VinePair.
