⏱ 1 min read
The Short Version
Margan is trading massive volume for singular precision, even ripping up 40 acres of Verdelho to make room for excellence. By embracing regenerative farming and unconventional varieties like Albariño, they’ve swapped commercial scale for unmistakable site character.
This is worth savoring: the deliberate retreat from volume to find true character. For years, Andrew Margan operated a massive 30,000-case brand to support his family, but that commercial scale came at a cost to precision. Now, alongside his wife Lisa and son Ollie, the winery is stripping back its entry-level offerings to focus on single-block excellence. They even pulled up 40 acres of Verdelho because it simply wasn’t aspirational enough for their new direction.
Ollie says that they are now seeing more site differences with the same variety.
A shift toward regenerative precision
The transition isn’t just about what they are pulling out, but how they are growing what remains. Under Ollie’s influence, the home vineyard has moved toward regenerative farming practices. While yields initially plummeted from 50 tons down to 20, the recovery to 30 tons has brought something far more valuable than sheer mass: distinct site expression. Even within the same variety, the terroir is starting to speak louder. Ollie says that they are now seeing more site differences with the same variety. This clarity is particularly evident between the sandy creek soils of the home block and the volcanic dolerite found at Fordwich Hill.
New varieties defining the profile
Margan is also distancing itself from traditional Hunter tropes by championing high-potential varieties like Albariño and Barbera. The recent 2026 samples show a producer mastering complexity through unconventional methods. Their Breaking Ground Albariño, utilizing both skin fermentation and whole-bunch pressing, delivers an energetic, saline profile that feels remarkably modern. Meanwhile, the Shiraz from Fordwich Hill demonstrates incredible finesse despite a ridiculously short hang time during the vintage. By leaning into these nuanced textures—from the stony weight of their Chardonnay to the salty edge of the Barbera—Margan is proving that quality requires the courage to say no to the easy path. Do you think a winery’s move toward smaller, premium production justifies the loss of accessibility?
Questions & Answers
Why is Margan winery shifting its production strategy?
Margan is pivoting from high-volume commercial production toward a focus on single-block excellence and quality. For years, the brand operated at a massive scale of 30,000 cases to support the family, but this volume came at the expense of precision. By stripping back entry-level offerings and even removing 40 acres of Verdelho, the winery aims to prioritize true character and aspirational wine quality over sheer mass and commercial accessibility.
How has regenerative farming impacted Margan's vineyard yields?
Regenerative farming practices have caused a significant fluctuation in grape yields while improving site expression. Initially, moving toward these sustainable methods caused yields to plummet from 50 tons down to just 20 tons. While the harvest eventually recovered to 30 tons, the primary benefit was not the volume but the increased clarity of terroir. This shift allows for distinct differences to emerge between various soil types, such as sandy creek and volcanic dolerite.
What new grape varieties is Margan introducing to the Hunter region?
Margan is championing high-potential varieties like Albariño and Barbera to distance itself from traditional Hunter Valley tropes. These unconventional choices allow the winery to explore modern profiles and complex textures. For example, their Breaking Ground Albariño utilizes skin fermentation and whole-bunch pressing to create an energetic, saline profile. By focusing on these unique varietals, the producer is able to demonstrate greater nuance and precision in its winemaking.
What role does soil type play in Margan's recent wine production?
Soil composition is essential for creating distinct site expressions across different blocks in the Margan vineyards. The winery observes significant differences in how varieties express themselves depending on whether they are grown in sandy creek soils or volcanic dolerite found at Fordwich Hill. This emphasis on terroir allows even the same grape variety to showcase unique characteristics, contributing to the overall precision and complexity of their premium single-block offerings.
Originally reported by Wine Anorak.
