⏱ 1 min read
The Short Version
In a region that has shrunk from 1,000 hectares to just ten, Santuvario is fighting back with high-altitude old vines and ancestral training. Their wines trade simple fruit for sophisticated tension, delivering grippy, skin-contact whites and structured, spice-driven reds.
Borgomanero sits at the foot of the Alps, anchoring a wine region that has seen its footprint shrink from 1,000 hectares to just 10. In this shrinking landscape of Boca, producers Ivano Barbaglia and Paola Fornara have been carving out a distinct identity since 2012. Their project, Santuvario, focuses on high-altitude vineyards between 400 and 500 meters, utilizing old vines and the traditional Maggiorina training system to produce wines defined by tension and texture.
The 2022 Lazio, a blend of 80% Nebbiolo and 20% Vespolina, is juicy, vivid, and bright with nice energy.
Heritage varieties and textural depth
The lineup presented at the VinNatur event in Paris reveals a stylistic pivot between skin-contact whites and structured red blends. The 2022 Gino Bianco marks a departure with its Erbaluce base; after one month on skins, it offers honey, apple, and spice on a palate that feels grainy with significant grip. Conversely, the reds lean into regional density. The 2022 Lavigna showcases the potential of 100% Croatina aged in 500-liter oak, delivering a dense, floral expression bounded by sweet acidity.
Santuvario’s ability to balance fruit energy with structural complexity is most evident in their blends. The 2022 Lazio, a blend of 80% Nebbiolo and 20% Vespolina, is juicy, vivid, and bright with nice energy. Aged for three years in 500 and 1700-liter oak, it balances sour cherry and raspberry against a savory, spicy structure. Similarly, the 2020 Red Blend—combining Croatina, Nebbiolo, Vespolino, and Uva Rara—bursts with raspberries and cherries, driven by a lively, sweet acidity and grippy density.
Precision in aging and structure
By utilizing varied oak vessels—from 500-liter barrels to larger 1700-liter formats—the producer builds necessary depth without sacrificing natural brightness. Whether through skin contact or extended barrel aging, the result is a collection that feels deeply rooted in the specific microclimates of Alto Piemonte, emphasizing grip and spice over simple fruit extraction.
As these small-scale producers continue to work within such limited acreage, their focus on historical training methods and old vines may be the key to preserving the region’s unique sensory signature.
Do you prefer your Nebbiolo-based blends to lean toward bright acidity or heavier structural density?
Questions & Answers
What makes the Santuvario winemaking style unique in Alto Piemonte?
Santuvario distinguishes itself by utilizing ancestral viticulture methods such as old vines and the traditional Maggiorina training system. This approach allows producers Ivano Barbaglia and Paola Fornara to create wines defined by significant tension, texture, and structural complexity. By focusing on high-altitude vineyards located between 400 and 500 meters, the project emphasizes the specific microclimates of the region. This method helps preserve the unique sensory signature of the shrinking Boca wine landscape through a focus on grip and spice.
How does Santuvario use different oak vessels in their aging process?
Santuvario utilizes a variety of oak vessels, ranging from 500-liter barrels to larger 1700-liter formats, to build depth in their wines. This strategic use of varied sizing allows the producers to develop necessary structural complexity without sacrificing the natural brightness of the fruit. For example, the 2022 Lazio blend is aged for three years in both 500 and 1700-liter oak to balance juicy fruit energy with a savory, spicy structure. This precision in aging helps maintain the balance between acidity and density.
What are the tasting notes for Santuvario's Erbaluce based white wine?
The 2022 Gino Bianco is a skin-contact white wine characterized by notes of honey, apple, and spice. Because the Erbaluce base undergoes one month of skin contact, the resulting palate feels grainy and possesses a significant amount of grip. This stylistic choice provides a distinct departure from traditional whites by emphasizing texture and structural tension. The wine serves as a primary example of how the producer uses skin contact to create a more complex and tactile drinking experience.
Which grape varieties are used in Santuvario's red wine blends?
Santuvario employs several regional heritage varieties in their red blends, including Nebbiolo, Vespolina, Croatina, and Uva Rara. For instance, their 2022 Lazio blend consists of 80% Nebbiolo and 20% Vespolina, resulting in a bright and juicy profile. Another example is their 2020 Red Blend, which combines Croatina, Nebbiolo, Vespolino, and Uva Rara to create a wine bursting with raspberry and cherry flavors. These combinations are designed to highlight the lively, sweet acidity and grippy density characteristic of the Alto Piemonte region.
Originally reported by Wine Anorak.
