⏱ 2 min read
The Short Version
Sonoma’s heavyweights are staging technical rebellions through experimental side brands, using "alter egos" to test pet-nats and orange wines. These strategic sub-labels protect legacy reputations while offering a playground for wilder fermentations and a fresh entry point for younger drinkers.
Long-established wineries are increasingly using secondary brands to stage technical rebellions. Rather than risking a legacy label’s reputation on unproven methods, these producers launch adventurous alter egos that allow winemakers to experiment with low-alcohol profiles, orange wines, and natural fermentation. These side projects serve a dual purpose: providing a creative playground for the cellar and offering younger consumers a more approachable entry point into diverse wine styles.
The idea is to give winemakers a chance to have fun and experiment while offering consumers a variety of wine styles to explore.
Breaking Tradition Through Secondary Labels
In Healdsburg, winemaker Erik Miller has spent decades building a reputation for terroir-driven classics like Dry Creek Zinfandel and Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon under his Kokomo label. However, since 2018, he has utilized his Breaking Bread brand to explore lighter, less formal expressions. The lineup moves away from heavy structures toward zinfandel-based pet-nats, whole cluster Pinot Noir, and Al Dente, a blend specifically designed to be served chilled. The idea is to give winemakers a chance to have fun and experiment while offering consumers a variety of wine styles to explore. This allows Miller to maintain his serious standing at Yountville-based Stewart Cellars while simultaneously pushing boundaries with an orange wine or a rosé.
Similarly, Blair Guthrie balances two distinct identities. While producing high-end wines for Stewart Cellars—a winery founded in 2000 by his father-in-law Michael Stewart—he operates Guthrie Family Cellars with a minimalist, organic focus. His personal brand prioritizes bright, fresh profiles through varieties like Vermentino, Grenache Blanc, and Gamay Noir, creating a sharp contrast to the more structured wines associated with his primary work.
Exploring the Natural Path
The trend toward experimentation also manifests in Lake County via Obsidian Ridge. Since launching their Cabernet Sauvignon brand in 2002, brothers Arpad and Peter Molnar have maintained a steady presence in the region. In 2020, they pivoted toward a more radical direction with The Rabbit Hole. This line leans into natural-leaning techniques that depart significantly from traditional Cabernet production.
Current releases under The Rabbit Hole include Pezsgő, a sparkling Pinot Noir pet-nat, as well as Máslás red piquette and a sweet white vermouth. By separating these wilder expressions from the core Obsidian Ridge identity, the Molnars can explore unconventional fermentations without disrupting their established market position. It is a strategic way to embrace the shifting tastes of a new generation of drinkers.
Do you prefer sticking to classic, terroir-driven varietals, or do you find yourself hunting for the experimental “side brands” on a wine list?
Questions & Answers
Why do established wineries launch experimental side brands?
Established wineries launch secondary brands to provide a creative playground for winemakers to experiment with unproven methods without risking their legacy label's reputation. These side projects allow producers to explore unconventional styles like low-alcohol profiles, orange wines, and natural fermentation. Additionally, these brands serve as an approachable entry point for younger consumers who are looking for more diverse and adventurous wine styles. This strategic separation allows a winery to maintain its serious market position while simultaneously embracing modern, shifting tastes.
How does Erik Miller use his secondary brand to experiment?
Erik Miller uses his Breaking Bread brand to explore lighter and less formal wine expressions that differ from his terroir-driven classics. While his Kokomo label focuses on traditional Dry Creek Zinfandel and Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Breaking Bread allows him to produce zinfandel-based pet-nats and whole cluster Pinot Noir. He also creates unique blends like Al Dente, which is specifically designed to be served chilled. This approach lets him push boundaries with orange wines or rosés while maintaining his professional standing.
What types of wines are produced under The Rabbit Hole label?
The Rabbit Hole produces natural-leaning wines that depart significantly from traditional Cabernet Sauvignon production. This brand, launched by the Molnar brothers of Obsidian Ridge, focuses on unconventional fermentations and wilder expressions. Current releases include Pezsgő, which is a sparkling Pinot Noir pet-nat, as well as Máslás red piquette and a sweet white vermouth. By utilizing this specific label, the producers can explore these radical directions without disrupting the established market identity of their core Cabernet Sauvignon brand.
In what ways does Blair Guthrie differentiate his two wine identities?
Blair Guthrie differentiates his wine identities by balancing high-end, structured wines with a minimalist, organic focus. While he produces traditional wines for Stewart Cellars, his personal brand, Guthrie Family Cellars, prioritizes bright and fresh profiles. He utilizes different grape varieties for his personal label, such as Vermentino, Grenache Blanc, and Gamay Noir, to create a sharp contrast to his primary work. This allows him to maintain a professional reputation for classic wines while simultaneously pursuing more experimental and fresh styles.
Originally reported by Sonoma Index-Tribune.
