This bottle arrived in my kitchen from a Tokyo warehouse, a relic of a vintage that’s been dubbed “solar intensity” by critics. Philippe Charlopin’s Clos Vougeot is a case study in modernist Burgundy—bold, unapologetic, and utterly thrilling. The 2022 vintage is a beast, with its dense, ripe fruit and brooding aromatics that scream of sun-drenched vines. Charlopin’s approach here is clear: he’s not chasing elegance, he’s crafting a wine that thrives on power.
The nose is a swirl of dark medicinal cherry, fleshy plum, and a violet floral note that lingers like a whisper. Oak and vanilla add a glossy sheen, coating the fruit in a creamy layer that feels almost indulgent. Blind, this would fool you into thinking it’s a Saint-Émilion—so rich, so ripe. But here’s the twist: it’s Pinot Noir. The wine defies expectations, offering a right-bank muscularity that’s rare in Burgundy. It’s a reminder that Pinot can be both precise and primal.
On the palate, the density continues—dark cherry, plum, and a sharp zing of black pepper spice. The tannins are firm, yet the mouthfeel is silk, a testament to Charlopin’s use of new oak and the phenolic ripeness of the year. The finish lingers with medicinal fruit and a peppery/vanilla note, a balance that feels almost surgical in its precision. It’s a wine that demands attention, not just for its intensity, but for how it marries structure with sensuality.
Key points: Charlopin’s modernist style leans into richness and intensity, making his wines feel like a statement. The 2022 vintage’s solar intensity is evident in the wine’s dense, ripe fruit and brooding aromatics. The balance between firm tannins and silky mouthfeel highlights the producer’s mastery of structure.
Would you pair this with a steak or let it age for another decade.
What’s your take on Charlopin’s bold approach? Would you pair this with a steak or let it age for another decade? Share your thoughts below.
Questions & Answers
What’s the taste profile of 2022 Domain Philippe Charlopin Clos Vougeot?
Rich black cherry, plum, and spice notes with smoky undertones. Medium-bodied with silky tannins and a long, elegant finish.
How should I serve this wine?
Serve at 18-19°C. Pair with roasted meats, game, or hearty stews. Decant for 30 minutes to open up its complex aromas and flavors.
Information sourced from industry reports and news outlets.
