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The Short Version
Before Chardonnay’s dominance, French Colombard was California's most planted white grape—now, Greg La Follette is resurrecting this forgotten powerhouse. By leveraging North America’s oldest vines, his brand Marchelle is proving that heritage beats hype in the modern market.
In This Article
This is worth savoring: while Chardonnay has spent decades dominating California landscapes, it effectively pushed another powerhouse into the shadows. Before the 1990s, French Colombard was the state’s most widely planted white grape, prized for its crisp acidity but now largely relegated to distillation or bulk blends. Winemaker Greg La Follette is changing that narrative through his brand, Marchelle, by treating this overlooked variety with the respect it deserves.
Marchelle is one of just a few California wineries making serious French Colombard, and it’s become the brand’s best-selling wine.
A legacy in the vines
The foundation of Marchelle’s mission lies in the preservation of history. La Follette helped resuscitate the Betty Ann Vineyard, home to what are believed to be the oldest French Colombard vines in North America, planted back in 1902. Marchelle is one of just a few California wineries making serious French Colombard, and it’s become the brand’s best-selling wine. By focusing on these ancient plantings alongside low-intervention Cinsault and single-vineyard Pinot Noirs, the winery prioritizes heritage over hype.
La Follette’s path to independence began during the pandemic. While serving as the original winemaker for Flowers Winery, he produced a rare house French Colombard for the three-Michelin-starred SingleThread. When the restaurant temporarily shut down, he bought the wine back to sell it himself, providing the spark for the Marchelle brand.
Community and education
The opening of Marchelle’s first tasting room in Healdsburg marks a shift from pandemic-era direct sales to a dedicated community hub. Located just off the plaza, the space avoids flashy downtown aesthetics. Instead, it serves as an outpost where La Follette can share his technical expertise with those eager to learn about the region’s historical grapes.
Through this new space, the brand moves beyond simple retail toward genuine local connection. As La Follette passes the baton to protégé Evan Damiano, the focus remains firmly on the quality of the liquid and the stories etched into the old vines.
Do you think forgotten varieties like French Colombard have a real chance at reclaiming their place in the modern market?
Questions & Answers
What is the history of French Colombard in California?
French Colombard was once the most widely planted white grape variety in California before the dominance of Chardonnay. Prior to the 1990s, it was a powerhouse variety highly prized for its crisp acidity in the state's vineyards. Over time, however, the grape was largely pushed into the shadows and relegated to use in distillation or bulk blends. Winemaker Greg La Follette is now working to change this narrative by treating the variety with newfound respect through his Marchelle brand.
How did the Marchelle wine brand begin?
The Marchelle brand was born when winemaker Greg La Follette bought back a rare house French Colombard he had originally produced for the three-Michelin-starred SingleThread restaurant. While serving as the original winemaker for Flowers Winery during the pandemic, La Follette created this specific wine for the restaurant's use. When SingleThread temporarily shut down, he acquired the wine to sell it independently, which provided the initial spark and foundation for launching his own dedicated wine label.
Why is the Betty Ann Vineyard significant to California viticulture?
The Betty Ann Vineyard is significant because it contains what are believed to be the oldest French Colombard vines in North America. These historic plantings date all the way back to 1902, representing a deep legacy of winemaking history. Greg La Follette helped resuscitate this specific vineyard as part of his mission to preserve heritage through the Marchelle brand. By focusing on these ancient vines, he prioritizes historical preservation over modern market hype in his winemaking process.
Where can people visit the Marchelle tasting room?
The Marchelle tasting room is located in Healdsburg, situated just off the city's main plaza. This dedicated community hub serves as a central space where Greg La Follette can share his technical expertise regarding the region's historical grape varieties. Rather than adopting flashy downtown aesthetics, the tasting room functions as an educational outpost for those eager to learn about old vines. The space marks a strategic shift from pandemic-era direct sales toward building genuine local connections within the community.
Originally reported by San Francisco Chronicle.
