⏱ 2 min read
The Short Version
White Zinfandel was an accidental economic savior, born from a fermentation error that rescued an entire industry. To combat plummeting sales, winemakers should embrace the "Relevé"—a strategic, versatile field blend designed to win back casual drinkers through accessible, multi-faceted complexity.
White Zinfandel is arguably America’s greatest contribution to wine culture, yet it remains a lightning rod for international derision. While critics dismissed it, the style saved the Zinfandel grape from oblivion and pulled the U.S. market out of a historic slump. Today, the category feels stagnant—its target audience is aging out, and quality is rarely the focus outside of producers like Turley Winery. However, with wine sales hitting record lows, the industry may need to look backward to move forward.
All Sutter Home did was use the resources available to create a new category of wine that made economic sense for both producer and consumer.
The accidental success of Sutter Home
The rise of the modern White Zin was less about viticultural intent and more about economic necessity. In the late 1970s, Bob Trinchero, winemaker at Sutter Home, faced a technical hiccup during the production of an Oeil de Perdrix rosé. Fermentation halted while the wine was still in an off-dry to medium-sweet state, leaving him with an unusually sweet vintage. Rather than fighting the flaw, he bottled it. All Sutter Home did was use the resources available to create a new category of wine that made economic sense for both producer and consumer. This mercantile solution provided the financial stability that allowed growers to eventually pivot back to high-quality, age-worthy Zinfandels.
Engineering a modern field blend
To resuscitate a flagging market, the industry needs a new category that requires no new infrastructure or expensive equipment. A potential blueprint exists in the work of Will Marengo at The Feudal Project in Walla Walla. While crafting “Mrs. Crabtree’s field blend,” Marengo strategically co-fermented a diverse mix including Riesling, Carmenère, Cabernet Franc, Viognier, Seyval Blanc, Malbec, Zinfandel, Maréchal Foch, and Traminette. The result is a multi-faceted wine that shifts character based on temperature—acting like a structured Tavel rosé when cold or a stone-fruit-driven Beaujolais at 16°C.
This concept of a Relevé—a purposeful field blend of red and white grapes encompassing an entire estate—could serve as the 21st-century answer to White Zin. It offers a singular, versatile product that challenges winemakers to balance flavor and structure without being tethered to a single variety. By focusing on accessibility and versatility, producers could once again bring wine into households that have drifted away from the category.
Could a strategic, blended approach be the key to winning back the casual drinker?
Questions & Answers
How did Sutter Home accidentally create White Zinfandel?
Sutter Home created White Zinfandel due to a technical error during the fermentation process of an Oeil de Perdrix rosé. Winemaker Bob Trinchero discovered that fermentation had halted while the wine was still in an off-dry to medium-sweet state. Instead of discarding the unintended vintage, he decided to bottle the sweet wine. This mercantile decision turned a production flaw into a massive commercial success that provided much-needed financial stability for Zinfandel growers during a period of economic necessity.
Why is White Zinfandel considered important to American wine history?
White Zinfandel is significant because it saved the Zinfandel grape from potential oblivion and helped pull the United States wine market out of a historic slump. While international critics often dismissed the style, its commercial success provided the financial foundation necessary for producers to eventually pivot. This stability allowed growers to invest in higher-quality, age-worthy Zinfandels. Ultimately, the style served as a vital economic bridge that helped sustain the American wine industry during challenging times.
What is the concept of a Relevé in modern winemaking?
A Relevé is a purposeful field blend consisting of a diverse mix of both red and white grapes from an entire estate. This approach aims to create a singular, versatile product that challenges winemakers to balance complex flavors and structure without relying on a single grape variety. By utilizing a wide range of grapes, such as those used in the Mrs. Crabtree field blend, producers can create wines that shift character based on serving temperature, offering a unique experience for consumers.
How can field blends help revitalize the wine industry?
Field blends can revitalize the wine industry by providing an accessible and versatile product that requires no new infrastructure or expensive equipment. By focusing on strategic co-fermentation of diverse grape varieties, producers can create wines that appeal to a broader audience. This method offers a way to engage casual drinkers and households that have drifted away from traditional wine categories. A modern approach like the Relevé could serve as a functional, 21st-century successor to the commercial success of White Zinfandel.
Originally reported by Tim Atkin.
