⏱ 2 min read
The Short Version
For many Indigenous chefs, omitting alcohol is a radical act of sovereignty against a history of colonial trauma. Whether through total abstinence or curated mocktails, these culinary leaders are navigating the high-stakes tension between community healing and the economic demands of fine dining.
In This Article
When Ojibwe chef Zach Keeshig opened Naagan in Ontario in late 2024, he made a definitive choice: no wine, beer, or spirits would touch his tables. For Keeshig, the decision was personal, rooted in the reality that alcohol-related death rates among Native people in North America remain three to five times higher than the general population. Beyond the heavy statistics lies a deeper culinary philosophy; much like white flour or processed sugar, alcohol was not part of the pre-contact Indigenous diet. In the high-stakes world of upscale dining, where bar programs often serve as essential cash cows, omitting alcohol is a radical act of sovereignty.
“We don’t mix alcohol with medicine,” says Inez Cook of First Nations restaurant Salmon n’ Bannockin.
The Weight of History
The tension surrounding alcohol in Indigenous spaces is inseparable from settler colonialism. While Indigenous peoples have brewed fermented drinks for millennia, particularly for ceremonial use, it was European settlers who industrialized spirits and wine. As author Michael D. Wise notes, the historical narrative that Native peoples have a biological weakness to alcohol has been debunked, serving instead as a way to absolve settlers of the trauma caused by displacement and resource loss. Today, many tribal communities face environments with disproportionately high rates of PTSD, creating a complex landscape for chefs trying to balance hospitality with community health. “We don’t mix alcohol with medicine,” says Inez Cook of First Nations restaurant Salmon n’ Bannockin.
Balancing Tradition and Commerce
Navigating this friction requires nuanced culinary maneuvering. At Vancouver’s Salmon n’ Bannockin, Inez Cook reserves traditionally medicinal ingredients like sweetgrass and sage exclusively for mocktails, while using hard-to-come-by soopolallie (soap berries) to whip into foams for cocktails blended with Bella Coola tea. Conversely, Cree chef Shane Chartrand of Alberta’s Paper Birch approaches his menu through the lens of pure culinary arts rather than ceremony. Though sober himself, Chartrand offers local mead and wine, acknowledging the economic reality of fine dining. He candidly observes that he can only be as Indigenous as the world allows him to be at a dinner where guests are paying $120.
Similarly, Choctaw chef David Skinner of Ishti in Texas ensures alcohol never enters the food itself, even if cocktails remain on the menu to satisfy the expectations of high-spend diners. These practitioners must also contend with persistent stereotypes; brewer Roxanne Fernandez Tiburolobop recalls clients expressing shock that an Indigenous person could actually produce alcohol. From total abstinence to carefully curated menus, these chefs are navigating the difficult intersection of heritage and commerce.
How should upscale restaurants balance traditional cultural values with the economic necessity of a standard bar program?
Questions & Answers
Why are some Indigenous chefs choosing to serve alcohol-free menus?
Many Indigenous chefs omit alcohol to prioritize community health and honor pre-contact dietary traditions. This decision is often driven by the fact that alcohol-related death rates among Native people in North America are significantly higher than the general population. For chefs like Zach Keeshig, removing spirits is a radical act of sovereignty that aligns with a culinary philosophy rooted in ingredients that existed before European contact. By avoiding alcohol, these restaurateurs aim to distance their establishments from the historical traumas associated with settler colonialism.
How do Indigenous restaurateurs navigate the economic pressure of serving alcohol?
Indigenous restaurateurs manage economic pressures by finding a balance between cultural sovereignty and the financial realities of fine dining. While some establishments like Naagan opt for total abstinence, others like Paper Birch offer local mead and wine to accommodate high-spend diners. Chefs such as David Skinner compromise by ensuring alcohol never enters the food itself, even if cocktails remain on the menu. This allows them to maintain a profitable bar program while still adhering to certain cultural boundaries regarding the use of traditional ingredients.
What is the historical connection between settler colonialism and alcohol use in Indigenous communities?
The history of alcohol in Indigenous communities is deeply tied to settler colonialism and the displacement of Native peoples. While Indigenous cultures have used fermented drinks for ceremonial purposes for millennia, European settlers industrialized spirits and wine. Historical narratives claiming a biological weakness to alcohol were used to absolve settlers of responsibility for the trauma caused by resource loss and displacement. Today, many tribal communities continue to navigate the complex intersection of high PTSD rates and the presence of industrialized alcohol.
How do chefs use traditional ingredients differently in cocktails versus mocktails?
Chefs use traditional ingredients selectively to distinguish between ceremonial elements and commercial beverage programs. For example, at Salmon n’ Bannockin, medicinal ingredients like sweetgrass and sage are reserved exclusively for non-alcoholic mocktails. In contrast, other ingredients like soopolallie are used to create foams for cocktails blended with tea. This nuanced approach allows chefs to respect the sacred nature of certain plants while still utilizing unique, traditional flavors to satisfy the culinary expectations of guests in an upscale dining environment.
Originally reported by Punch Drink.
