The Adriatic’s vineyards are more than scenic backdrops—they’re living testaments to resilience. In a sun-scorched June morning, Andrew Jefford found himself in Primošten, a coastal village where tamarisk trees sway over white sand, and the sea glints like liquid sapphire. With him was Croatia’s leading wine writer, Saša Špiranec, and Leo Gracin, a professor of oenology at Split University. Their destination? A family vineyard where 80-year-old Josipa Marinov, known as Bepa, bent double to prune red Babić vines, her hands steady, her spirit sharp. Her sons joined her, and for a moment, the scene felt like a portrait of agricultural tradition.
Bepa’s story is a masterclass in quiet persistence. Her vines, rooted in the Adriatic’s coastal soil, thrive in conditions many would deem hostile. Yet she and her family have turned adversity into art. The Babić grape, once overlooked, now commands respect for its structure and depth. “These vines are survivors,” Jefford noted, watching Bepa’s nimble movements. The professor, Leo Gracin, added that the region’s unique microclimate—coastal breezes, mineral-rich soils—creates a terroir that’s both challenging and rewarding. “You can’t force this kind of complexity,” he said. “It emerges when you respect the land.”
The visit underscored a broader truth: Croatia’s wine scene is a blend of old-world tradition and modern ambition. Bepa’s vineyard, near Leo’s own vinarija in Primošten, exemplifies this duality. Her hands, weathered yet precise, mirror the care that goes into every bottle. Yet the younger generation—her sons, the professor, and Jefford himself—brings fresh perspectives. They’re not just preserving heritage; they’re redefining it. “This isn’t nostalgia,” Jefford remarked. “It’s a conversation between past and future.”
The key takeaway? Terroir isn’t just about soil and climate—it’s about people. Bepa’s legacy lies in her ability to adapt without losing her roots. For Croatia’s wines to thrive, they need both the stubbornness of tradition and the curiosity of innovation. And as Jefford’s journey shows, the Adriatic’s vines are more than crops—they’re storytellers.
What’s your favorite example of a region where terroir and human effort create something extraordinary.
What’s your favorite example of a region where terroir and human effort create something extraordinary?
Questions & Answers
What is the Adriatic inlet near Andrew Jefford’s vineyards?
The cobalt Adriatic inlet is a coastal body of water near Jefford’s vineyards, known for its striking blue color and scenic beauty.
Where is Andrew Jefford’s vineyard located?
Andrew Jefford’s vineyard is located in the coastal region near the Adriatic inlet, offering stunning views of the sea and surrounding landscape.
Information sourced from industry reports and news outlets.
