⏱ 2 min read
The Short Version
Barcelona is ditching the sugary, bitter legacy of torrefacto to embrace a sophisticated specialty revolution. Led by industry pioneers, the city’s coffee scene is evolving from rapid-fire espresso shots into a diverse landscape of craft roasteries and intentional lifestyle hubs.
For decades, Spain’s coffee reputation was defined by torrefacto—the practice of adding sugar to beans during roasting to create a shiny, bitter coating. This method became the national norm, stalling development after the Spanish Civil War halted progress in the late 1930s. Today, that legacy is being dismantled in Barcelona, where a surging specialty scene is transforming the city into a global destination for craft enthusiasts.
The specialty-coffee scene in Barcelona is now catering to a much wider audience than it did years ago.
Pioneers shifting the flavor profile
The modern movement owes much of its momentum to Jordi Mestre Ramentol and Nomad Coffee. After honing his skills at London’s Nude Espresso, Ramentol returned home to launch a mobile cart before establishing the Nomad roastery in 2014. His competitive pedigree—winning Spain’s National Barista Championship and placing 15th at the World Barista Championship—cemented Barcelona’s status as a serious player on the international stage.
Other foundational players have expanded this landscape through diverse business models. Joaquín Parra of Right Side Coffee transitioned from a home-based operation to opening a permanent café in the Gothic Quarter in 2023, leveraging his family’s history in green coffee importing. Meanwhile, Carmen Callizo and François Justet of SlowMov focus on community and sustainability. Beyond their “traditionally renovated” café space, they offer training services to help new shops find their footing. The specialty-coffee scene in Barcelona is now catering to a much wider audience than it did years ago.
Expanding beyond the espresso bar
As the number of specialty shops climbs toward an estimated 150, the culture is diversifying into unique lifestyle hubs. Some establishments now function as hybrids, doubling as record shops, flower boutiques, or ceramics studios. This shift moves drinkers away from the rapid-fire espresso shots typical of traditional Spanish bars toward more intentional explorations of filter coffee and lighter roasts.
Marco de Rebotti, co-founder of Three Marks Coffee, notes that this growth doesn’t have to come at the expense of heritage. Operating in the Fort Pienc neighborhood, Three Marks emphasizes transparency and long-term producer relationships without erasing the social connection inherent to Spanish coffee culture. The goal is not replacement, but rather adding new flavors and experiences to the existing ritual through genuine hospitality.
Do you think specialty coffee enriches or dilutes the traditional social ritual of the Spanish café?
Questions & Answers
What is torrefacto coffee and how did it influence Spanish coffee culture?
Torrefacto is a traditional Spanish roasting method that involves adding sugar to coffee beans during the roasting process to create a shiny, bitter coating. This technique became the national standard for decades following the Spanish Civil War, which effectively stalled the country's coffee development after the late 1930s. While this method defined Spain's coffee reputation for a long time, the modern specialty movement in cities like Barcelona is now working to dismantle this legacy by introducing lighter roasts and more diverse flavor profiles.
How is the specialty coffee scene in Barcelona changing the traditional cafe experience?
The specialty coffee scene is transforming Barcelona into a diverse destination by moving beyond the rapid-fire espresso shots typical of traditional Spanish bars. Many new establishments are evolving into unique lifestyle hubs that function as hybrids, combining coffee service with record shops, flower boutiques, or ceramics studios. This shift encourages more intentional coffee consumption, such as exploring filter coffee and lighter roasts. These modern spaces aim to add new flavors and experiences to existing social rituals rather than completely replacing the heritage of Spanish hospitality.
Who are some of the key figures driving the specialty coffee movement in Barcelona?
Several pioneers are instrumental in shifting Barcelona's coffee landscape toward high-quality specialty standards. Jordi Mestre Ramentol of Nomad Coffee helped cement the city's international reputation through his competitive barista background and professional roasting expertise. Joaquín Parra of Right Side Coffee brought a history of green coffee importing to the Gothic Quarter, while Carmen Callizo and François Justet of SlowMov focus on sustainability and providing training services for new shops. These diverse leaders have helped expand the scene to cater to a much wider global audience.
Why is the specialty coffee industry in Barcelona expanding into hybrid business models?
The expansion into hybrid models occurs because the growing number of specialty shops is seeking to create unique lifestyle hubs that offer more than just caffeine. By doubling as spaces for ceramics, flowers, or music, these establishments move away from the standard cafe format to offer a more immersive cultural experience. This trend reflects a broader shift in consumer behavior toward intentional exploration and community building. It allows coffee shops to integrate themselves into the local fabric of neighborhoods like Fort Pienc and the Gothic Quarter.
Originally reported by Barista Magazine.
