Get ready to sip on this: In Nicosia, the difference between a chain coffee and a specialty brew is less about price and more about the science of bitterness. Christos Soteriou, a local coffee enthusiast, admits that Starbucks’ Americano is a decent fallback when no better options exist—until you add a pinch of salt to cut the harshness. This trick, he says, transforms the drink into something “at least halfway-drinkable.” But it’s not just about survival; it’s about the broader debate over what defines “good” coffee in a city where chains dominate the landscape.
Nicosia’s specialty scene, led by shops like Utu and Kollaborative, represents a counterpoint to the standard espresso. According to World Population Review, Cyprus ranks 20th globally for coffee consumption, but much of that is instant or frappé. Specialty coffee, however, is a different beast. It’s about single-origin beans, meticulous roasting, and a reverence for flavor. Demetris Michaelides of Utu, a self-proclaimed anti-snob, explains that specialty coffee isn’t about scores or pretension—it’s about personal taste. “The best coffee is the one you like,” he insists, a motto that contrasts sharply with the bitterness of chain cafes.
The bitterness in mainstream espresso isn’t accidental. Dark roasting, a common tactic for chains, strips away acidity and complexity, leaving a one-note bitterness. Demetris, who once drank Starbucks daily, now sees it as a necessary evil for consistency. “They’re not in the same business as us,” he says, noting that chains prioritize creamy lattes over pure coffee. Meanwhile, Utu’s approach—light roasting, ethical sourcing, and a rotating roster of global beans—creates a drink that’s floral, fruity, and almost tea-like. It’s a revelation for those willing to taste beyond the burn.
The evolution of Nicosia’s coffee culture isn’t just about beans. It’s about community. Over a dozen specialty shops now thrive in the city, from Kollaborative’s steampunk roaster to Utu’s playful co-fermented brews. Yet the journey to appreciation is gradual. As Demetris puts it, “Becoming selective is a process.” For others, it’s a choice between a quick caffeine hit and a sip that lingers.
Or are you ready to explore the nuance.
What’s your coffee story? Have you ever tried adding salt to a bitter cup? Or are you ready to explore the nuance?
KEY POINTS: Chain coffee’s bitterness stems from dark roasting, which masks flavor but ensures consistency. Specialty shops like Utu prioritize acidity, floral notes, and ethical sourcing, offering a contrast to mainstream options. Coffee appreciation is a journey, not a judgment—Demetris’ motto encapsulates the balance between expertise and personal taste.
CLOSE: Have you ever tried adding salt to a bitter coffee? Or are you ready to explore the nuance?
Questions & Answers
Are Nicosia coffee shops considered trendy?
Nicosia coffee shops are seen as trendy, offering modern brews and ambiance. Locals and tourists alike visit for quality coffee and relaxed vibes.
What do locals think about Nicosia coffee culture?
Locals view Nicosia coffee culture as a blend of tradition and trendiness. Many appreciate the mix of classic and modern styles in local cafes.
Information sourced from industry reports and news outlets.
