This might just change your routine: Santorini’s vineyards, once a symbol of timeless winemaking, are now fighting for survival against climate change and tourism. For millennia, the island’s volcanic soils and salt-stained Assyrtiko grapes have defined Greece’s most iconic wine region. But today, historic vineyards are shrinking, yields are collapsing, and the future of Santorini’s wine identity hangs in the balance.
The crisis is both ecological and economic. Over the past three vintages, Santorini has endured record droughts, with annual rainfall plummeting below 200mm. Heatwaves have accelerated budbreak, pushing harvests into late July—far earlier than traditional cycles. At Domaine Sigalas, owner Stellios Boutaris notes that 2025’s 450-tonne harvest is just 15% of 2000’s output. Meanwhile, tourism has consumed former vineyards, converting them into hotels and villas. Growers now sell grapes for €10 per kilo, a fraction of their former value, while younger generations abandon viticulture for more lucrative tourism ventures.
The strain is most visible in Santorini’s signature wines. Vinsanto, once a labor-intensive sweet specialty, is nearly extinct. At Sigalas, the last vintage was 2020; producing it now would require sacrificing Assyrtiko grapes. “It’s a museum wine,” Boutaris says, “a relic of an era that may never return.” Yet Assyrtiko, the island’s dry white, has shown resilience. Matthaios Argyros of Argyros Estate calls 2025 a “quality over quantity” year, with low yields yielding wines of exceptional purity. Still, the survival of these vines depends on water—a resource increasingly scarce.
Adaptation is fragmented. Some estates, like Vassaltis, have uprooted old vines to replant with irrigated, single-variety blocks. Others, like Sigalas, blend tradition with modern tech: retaining basket-trained kouloura vines while installing irrigation systems. Yet without coordinated action, the outlook remains grim. “Authorities prioritize tourism over agriculture,” says Valambous. “Until we go back to the drawing board, there’s little hope for systemic change.”
Key points: Santorini’s vineyards face a 60-80% yield drop due to drought and heat; tourism has consumed 2,000ha of former vineyards; Assyrtiko remains resilient, but Vinsanto is nearly extinct.
Key points: Santorini’s vineyards face a 60-80% yield drop due to drought and heat; tourism has consumed 2,000ha of former vineyards; Assyrtiko remains resilient, but Vinsanto is nearly extinct.
What’s your favorite Santorini wine—and how long would you cellar it? Share your thoughts below.
Questions & Answers
How are Santorini vineyards adapting to climate change?
Vineyards use drought-resistant grape varieties, drip irrigation, and shade nets. They also focus on sustainable practices to conserve water and soil health.
Does tourism harm Santorini’s vineyards?
Tourism strains resources and increases land pressure. It also affects traditional farming practices and local wine culture through overdevelopment and land use changes.
Information sourced from industry reports and news outlets.
