If you’ve ever wondered what makes Tokaj’s wines legendary, imagine a lineup where each glass feels like a revelation. A recent tasting at Szepsy, the family-run estate in Hungary’s Tokaj region, delivered exactly that. Guided by István Szepsy Jr., the session spanned nine wines from the 2022 vintage, each revealing layers of history, terroir, and the winery’s quiet ambition. From crisp entry-level offerings to honey-drenched rarities, the experience was less about tasting wine and more about witnessing its alchemy.
Szepsy’s Furmint & Hun, a newer addition to the lineup, served as the perfect primer. Crisp, acidic, and priced around $30, it felt like a gateway to the region’s complexity. One sommelier likened it to Riesling, but its Hungarian roots lingered in every sip. The Nyúlászó, 100% Furmint, was another standout—aged in French and Hungarian oak, it carried a New World charm, like a California Chardonnay with a touch of mineral tension. Yet the real magic unfolded with the Urbán 73, a single-vineyard gem from the 1930s. Its floral nose and clean balance made it the most compelling wine of the day, a testament to patience and precision.
The sweet wines, however, stole the show. Szamorodni, made from grapes picked in bunches, offered a delicate balance of mandarin and honey, while the 2019 Aszú—Szepsy’s crown jewel—was transcendent. Dense, sweet, yet refined, it embodied Tokaj’s reputation as the “wine of kings.” Even the Eszencia, a rare concentrate of botrytized grapes, left a lingering impression. Served from a decanter, its honey-like texture and intensity felt like a sensory overload.
KEY POINTS: Szepsy’s wines bridge tradition and modernity, with oak aging adding a New World flair to classic Furmint. The distinction between Szamorodni and Aszú lies in grape selection, with the former offering more approachable sweetness. The family’s generosity—allowing non-sommeliers like me to taste and learn—cements their legacy as stewards of Tokaj’s heritage.
Share your picks in the comments.
CLOSE: What’s your favorite way to savor Tokaj’s sweetness? Share your picks in the comments.
Questions & Answers
What’s special about Szepsy’s Furmint & Hun?
Szepsy’s Furmint & Hun is a crisp, acidic entry-level wine priced around $30. It offers a gateway to Tokaj’s complexity, with Hungarian roots and a Riesling-like profile.
What’s the focus of Szepsy’s wine tasting?
Szepsy’s tasting focuses on showcasing Tokaj’s terroir and history through nine 2022 wines. It’s more about experiencing the alchemy of winemaking than just tasting wine.
Information sourced from industry reports and news outlets.
