⏱ 1 min read
The Short Version
Forget everything you know about simple Aligoté; Tino Kuban is elevating this variety to Meursault levels of prestige. Through low yields and extended lees aging in new oak, Les Jardins Vivants crafts dense, complex whites and structured reds built for serious longevity.
Pour yourself a cup for this one: it turns out Aligoté doesn’t have to be a simple, everyday white. A recent flight of Les Jardins Vivants wines suggests that under the direction of Tino Kuban, this variety is moving into a much more prestigious tier. By utilizing low yields and extended lees aging in new Stockinger barrels, the estate is crafting whites that demand serious attention.
This could easily rival top Meursault any day.
Reimagining the Aligoté profile
The lineup highlights how specific cellar decisions shape character across different parcels. The Les Reipes 2023 offers a flinty, saline expression defined by citrus zest and white flowers, while the Les Vaux 2023 provides a stark contrast in texture. As a field blend dominated by Aligoté, the Les Vaux delivers layers of citrus cream, butter, and caramel popcorn. This could easily rival top Meursault any day. For those seeking density, the Les Vaux Réserve 2022—sourced from 80-year-old vines—unfolds with toasted nuts and remarkable dry extract.
Concentration meets whole cluster aromatics
While the whites often steal the spotlight, the reds prove just as capable of complexity. The En Buzigny 2023 leans into seductive perfume, offering rose, violets, and juicy red cherries through a silky, elegant lens. In contrast, the Les Échalas 2022 presents a more disciplined profile. Grown from old, échalas-trained vines near Meursault, this wine focuses on dark berries and mineral spice with a coiled structure. Both reds demonstrate a mastery of whole cluster aromatics that balance perfume with significant concentration. Whether choosing elegance or opulence, these wines are clearly built for longevity. Do you think Aligoté has finally earned its place alongside Chardonnay in the premium market?
Questions & Answers
How does Les Jardins Vivants improve the quality of Aligoté?
Les Jardins Vivants improves the quality of Aligoté through precision cellar work involving low yields and extended lees aging. By utilizing new Stockinger barrels, director Tino Kuban elevates this variety from a simple everyday white into a much more prestigious tier. These specific winemaking decisions allow the estate to craft complex whites that demand serious attention and demonstrate significant character across different vineyard parcels.
What are the flavor differences between Les Reipes and Les Vaux Aligoté?
The primary difference lies in their textural profiles and aromatic expressions. Les Reipes 2023 offers a flinty, saline expression characterized by citrus zest and white flowers. In contrast, the Les Vaux 2023 is a field blend that delivers layers of citrus cream, butter, and caramel popcorn. While one focuses on salinity, the other provides a rich texture that can rival top Meursault wines.
What characteristics define the Les Vaux Réserve 2022?
The Les Vaux Réserve 2022 is defined by its remarkable dry extract and notes of toasted nuts. This specific wine is sourced from eighty-year-old vines, which contributes to its significant density and complexity. Because of the age of the vines and the concentrated nature of the fruit, this bottling stands out as a particularly intense expression within the estate's lineup.
How do the red wines from Les Jardins Vivants compare in profile?
The red wines differ significantly in their aromatic focus and structural intensity. En Buzigny 2023 offers a seductive, silky perfume featuring rose, violets, and juicy red cherries. Conversely, the Les Échalas 2022 provides a more disciplined profile with dark berries and mineral spice. Grown from old, échalas-trained vines near Meursault, the latter maintains a coiled structure that balances perfume with concentration.
Originally reported by Reddit Wine.
