This is worth savoring: The USDA’s new Strengthening Organic Enforcement (SOE) rules are forcing wine importers to become certified organic, a shift that’s unraveling the progress of a category once dismissed as niche. During a meeting with a Hungarian winemaker, Eric Danch of Danch & Granger casually noted that importers—those handling logistics, not just production—are now required to hold organic certification. The move, effective in March 2024, aims to “better protect organic businesses and consumers” by stamping out fraud. But for a category that’s grown from health-food-store curiosity to mainstream status in under a generation, the rules feel less like a safeguard and more like a bureaucratic landmine.
The USDA’s logic is clear: stricter oversight ensures labels aren’t misleading. Yet the reality for small importers is anything but straightforward. Annual audits, reimbursement of inspector expenses, and proof that products haven’t been mixed with nonorganic goods have turned certification into a costly and time-consuming ordeal. Olivia Taibi of Zev Rovine Selections describes it as a “backwards loop”—a system where importers now shoulder regulatory oversight, spending up to $3,000 annually on inspections alone. For a business already navigating global supply chains, these hurdles feel like an extra layer of friction.
The stakes extend beyond paperwork. Jenny Lefcourt of Jenny & François Selections warns that the rules risk undermining the very diversity that made organic wine appealing. With small importers struggling to meet requirements, fewer wines will reach U.S. shelves, narrowing the palette for consumers. Meanwhile, the threat of fines or re-exportation looms over any misstep. For winemakers and importers alike, the message is stark: compliance isn’t optional—it’s a survival tactic.
The question isn’t whether these rules are necessary, but whether they’re proportionate. What’s the line between protecting organic integrity and stifling the very diversity these rules aim to preserve?
Small importers face annual audits, inspection fees, and the burden of proving product purity, creating a financial strain.
KEY POINTS: The USDA’s SOE rules now require importers to hold organic certification, adding layers of bureaucracy and cost. Small importers face annual audits, inspection fees, and the burden of proving product purity, creating a financial strain. These changes risk reducing the diversity of organic wines available to consumers, contradicting the category’s growth trajectory.
CLOSE: What’s the line between protecting organic integrity and stifling the very diversity these rules aim to preserve?
Questions & Answers
What does it mean to be green?
Being green refers to environmental sustainability. It involves reducing waste, conserving energy, and using eco-friendly products to protect the planet.
Why is being green important?
Being green helps reduce pollution, conserve natural resources, and combat climate change. It promotes a healthier environment for future generations.
Information sourced from industry reports and news outlets.
