⏱ 2 min read
The Short Version
While Asian American cuisine dominates the global stage, its viticulture remains largely overlooked. AAPI Food & Wine is changing that, launching high-profile festivals and residencies to move AAPI-made wines from the margins into the center of fine dining.
Lois and Dave Cho launched CHO Wines in the Willamette Valley in 2020 as the first Korean American winemakers in Oregon. While their wines quickly gained critical acclaim, they noticed a glaring disparity between the visibility of Asian American cuisine and the relative obscurity of its wine counterpart. What began as an attempt to find perfect pairings for Korean heritage dishes evolved into a mission to demand equal footing for AAPI-made wines.
I knew it was going to be a kick-ass party, but I didn’t realize that it was going to be so emotional.
From potluck to nonprofit powerhouse
The concept materialized in 2023 with the official launch of AAPI Food & Wine. The inaugural festival in Oregon featured 12 Portland chefs and five AAPI-owned wineries, including Hundred Suns Wine and Et Fille Wines, drawing a sold-out crowd of 1,000 people. This wasn’t just a commercial success; it was a cultural pivot point. I knew it was going to be a kick-ass party, but I didn’t realize that it was going to be so emotional. For a community long taught to assimilate and fly under the radar to avoid scrutiny, this outward embrace of heritage felt like a necessary reclamation.
The organization has since expanded beyond the Pacific Northwest, recently completing a three-day residency in New York City in partnership with the culinary elite at Atoboy. These events serve as high-profile platforms for industry heavyweights like winemaker Sashi Moorman of Evening Land Vineyards and James Beard Award-winning bakers Jin Caldwell and Kyurim “Q” Lee of JinJu Patisserie. By bringing together established names and rising stars from small brick-and-mortars to food carts, the nonprofit is reshaping how heritage intersects with fine dining.
Expanding the sensory map
Under the guidance of board members Sylvia Choi and Jane Barmore, the nonprofit is actively pursuing growth in major markets including Los Angeles, Seattle, Chicago, D.C., and potentially Austin. This momentum mirrors a changing guard in the cellar, where a new wave of AAPI-identifying professionals is aggressively pursuing Master Sommelier credentials.
This shift marks a departure from generations defined by quiet repression toward a generation ready to claim the spotlight. The movement is no longer just about hosting festivals; it’s about ensuring Asian American viticulture moves out of the margins and into the center of the global palate.
Do you think the wine industry is doing enough to highlight the cultural heritage behind diverse flavor profiles?
Questions & Answers
What is the mission of the AAPI Food & Wine organization?
AAPI Food & Wine is a nonprofit organization dedicated to demanding equal footing for Asian American-made wines within the industry. The group aims to bridge the visibility gap between the widespread recognition of Asian American cuisine and the relative obscurity of its wine counterpart. By hosting festivals and high-profile culinary residencies, the organization creates platforms that allow AAPI viticulture to move from the margins into the center of the global palate and fine dining scene.
How did CHO Wines influence the creation of AAPI Food & Wine?
CHO Wines served as the catalyst for the nonprofit after founders Lois and Dave Cho noticed a lack of representation for Asian American wines. As the first Korean American winemakers in Oregon's Willamette Valley, the Chos initially sought to find perfect wine pairings for their Korean heritage dishes. This pursuit eventually evolved into a larger mission to elevate AAPI viticulture, leading to the official launch of the AAPI Food & Wine organization in 2023 to support the community.
Why is the AAPI Food & Wine movement considered a cultural reclamation?
The movement represents a cultural reclamation because it encourages a community that was historically taught to assimilate and remain inconspicuous to openly embrace its heritage. For generations defined by quiet repression, these public festivals and culinary events allow AAPI professionals to step into the spotlight. By celebrating their roots through wine and food, these individuals are reclaiming their identity and ensuring their cultural contributions are visible and celebrated in the mainstream culinary world.
Where is AAPI Food & Wine planning to expand its presence?
AAPI Food & Wine is actively pursuing growth in several major metropolitan markets across the United States. Under the guidance of its board members, the nonprofit is looking to bring its programming to cities including Los Angeles, Seattle, Chicago, and Washington, D.C. There are also potential plans to expand into Austin. This expansion follows the success of their inaugural Oregon festival and their recent high-profile residency in New York City at the renowned Atoboy restaurant.
Originally reported by VinePair.
