⏱ 2 min read
The Short Version
Even after a devastating frost slashed yields to 20%, Winnica Moderna is proving Polish wine has moved past novelty. Through high-acid precision and textured fermentation, these Lower Silesian vines are delivering serious, world-class depth.
A massive spring frost recently decimated yields for Winnica Moderna, leaving the estate with only 20% of its normal harvest. Despite this volatility, owner Nestor Kościański is producing wines from his 3.1 hectares in Poland’s Trzebnickie Hills that suggest the region’s warming climate is hitting an inflection point. Growing both vinifera and resistant varieties on sandy clay soils, the producer focuses on high-acid precision across styles ranging from skin-contact whites to structured Pinot Noir.
Juicy, bright and alive, this is limey with lovely purity and texture.
Texture through fermentation and skin contact
The winery leans heavily into texture, particularly within its sparkling and orange wine programs. The 2024 Pet Nat ‘Fck the Frost’—a blend of 80% Rondo and 20% Johanniter—recovers from a difficult vintage by offering bright notes of pear and orange peel (90/100). Similarly, the 2023 Johanniter Muscaris Skin Contact achieves a full yellow color with pithy peach and pear fruit (92/100), using minimal SO2 to maintain its balance. Juicy, bright and alive, this is limey with lovely purity and texture. This energy extends to the 2023 Pet Nat, a brut nature blend of Johanniter, Riesling, and Scheurebe that relies on a split-fermentation technique to maintain its lively acidity (92/100).
Even the still wines show a penchant for weight without sacrificing freshness. The 2022 Chardonnay Sur Lie & Barrique provides a dense, savory experience with almond and woody notes (90/100), while the Cabernet Cortis 2022 offers a mouthfilling profile defined by chalky, spicy character and beetroot hints (91/100).
The pursuit of Pinot Noir clarity
Pinot Noir serves as a primary benchmark for the estate’s technical capability. The 2023 vintage uses ten days on skins followed by malolactic fermentation in stainless steel and 300-liter used French oak to produce a delicate strawberry and red cherry profile (92/100). A more substantial iteration, the 2022 Pinot Noir, undergoes 14 months in used oak; while it displays some mid-palate rigidity, it remains an impressive study in focused fruit and high acidity (92/100).
Across the portfolio, from the zero-dosage ‘See You in My Life’ Rondo (91/100) to the vivid ‘See You in Hell’ Brut Nature Riesling (91/100), Winnica Moderna is prioritizing vivid acidity and structural integrity. As these Lower Silesian vineyards continue to mature, they are proving that Polish viticulture can move past novelty into serious, stylistic depth.
Do you think emerging wine regions like Poland rely more on traditional vinifera or resistant varieties to establish their identity?
Questions & Answers
What grape varieties does Winnica Moderna grow in Poland?
Winnica Moderna grows a combination of both vinifera and resistant grape varieties on the sandy clay soils of the Trzebnickie Hills. The estate produces several distinct styles using these grapes, including Rondo, Johanniter, Riesling, and Scheurebe for their sparkling and Pet Nat programs. They also focus on classic varieties like Chardonnay, Cabernet, and Pinot Noir to demonstrate the region's technical potential and stylistic depth as the climate continues to warm.
How does Winnica Moderna produce its Pinot Noir wines?
Winnica Moderna produces Pinot Noir through specific skin contact and fermentation techniques to achieve varying levels of structure and fruit clarity. For the 2023 vintage, the winery uses ten days of skin contact followed by malolactic fermentation in stainless steel and 300-liter used French oak. A more substantial version of the wine, the 2022 vintage, undergoes a longer aging process of 14 months in used oak to create a more substantial profile.
Why did Winnica Moderna experience a significant decrease in harvest yields?
A massive spring frost recently decimated the yields at the Winnica Moderna estate, leaving the winery with only 20% of its normal harvest. This weather volatility created a difficult vintage for the producer located in the Trzebnickie Hills. Despite this loss, the estate has focused on producing high-quality wines, such as the 2024 Pet Nat Fck the Frost, which uses a blend of Rondo and Johanniter to recover from the challenging growing season.
What characteristics define the wine styles produced in the Lower Silesian region?
Wines from the Lower Silesian region are characterized by high acidity, structural integrity, and a focus on texture. Producers like Winnica Moderna utilize techniques such as skin contact, split-fermentation, and sur lie aging to create diverse profiles ranging from bright Pet Nats to savory, dense Chardonnays. These wines often emphasize purity and vividness, showcasing how the warming climate allows for both delicate fruit profiles and more substantial, mouthfilling structures.
Originally reported by Wine Anorak.
