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There’s a quiet crisis unfolding in the world of organic wine. Last spring, the USDA’s Strengthening Organic Enforcement (SOE) rules upended the industry by requiring importers—not just winemakers—to hold organic certification. The move, framed as a safeguard against fraud, has instead created a bureaucratic nightmare for small-scale producers and importers. For years, organic wine has carved a niche in the market, evolving from a niche curiosity to a mainstream category. Now, the very rules meant to protect integrity are threatening to stifle innovation and diversity. The fallout is stark. Importers like Eric Danch of Danch & Granger, who once effortlessly…

This is worth savoring: The USDA’s new Strengthening Organic Enforcement (SOE) rules are forcing wine importers to become certified organic, a shift that’s unraveling the progress of a category once dismissed as niche. During a meeting with a Hungarian winemaker, Eric Danch of Danch & Granger casually noted that importers—those handling logistics, not just production—are now required to hold organic certification. The move, effective in March 2024, aims to “better protect organic businesses and consumers” by stamping out fraud. But for a category that’s grown from health-food-store curiosity to mainstream status in under a generation, the rules feel less like…