This tasting was about bold wines, lively conversation, and a burger so good it’s a legend. Hosted by Chuck Cramer, the self-proclaimed “Mr. California,” at Smith & Wollensky’s London outpost, it was a rare glimpse into the Terlato Wine Group’s California empire. The event wasn’t just about wine—it was a masterclass in how the state’s terroir, tradition, and innovation shape its reputation as the US’s wine engine. With over 80% of the country’s production, California’s wines span from hyper-premium to commercial, but this tasting zeroed in on three Terlato brands that exemplify the region’s diversity: The Federalist, HANNA, and Rutherford Hill.
The Federalist, with its six-million-bottle output, offered a snapshot of California’s accessibility. Winemaker Corey Garner’s fruit-forward style—think plush Pinot Noir and zesty Zinfandel from Lodi’s Borden Ranch—showed how big wines can still be approachable. The 2023 Pinot Noir, fermented in steel and aged in French oak, was a study in balance: red berries, anise, and a crisp finish that hinted at the region’s climate extremes. Meanwhile, HANNA’s Russian River Valley Chardonnay, aged in a mix of French and European oak, leaned into elegance, with candied citrus and electric acidity. It was a reminder that California’s cool-climate zones can rival Burgundy’s precision.
Rutherford Hill, the Napa Valley titan, brought the weight of tradition. Their Merlot, aged in French oak for 14 months, was a dark, brooding expression of the region’s rocky soils. But the real standout was their Sauvignon Blanc, blending 13% Sauvignon Gris—a first for California—with tropical fruit and a textural richness that blurred the line between white Bordeaux and California’s own style. These wines didn’t just taste different; they told stories of soil, climate, and ambition.
KEY POINTS: California’s wine identity is shaped by its ability to balance scale and quality, from mass-produced everyday wines to niche terroir-driven bottlings. The Federalist proves that bold doesn’t mean boring, while HANNA and Rutherford Hill show how the state’s diverse regions can craft wines that rival the Old World. Terroir isn’t just a buzzword—it’s the backbone of California’s dominance.
What’s your favorite California wine region, and which bottle from this tasting would you cellar for a decade.
What’s your favorite California wine region, and which bottle from this tasting would you cellar for a decade?
Questions & Answers
What is Chuck Cramer known for?
Chuck Cramer is known for highlighting Terlato’s best products and advocating for California’s potential in the wine and food industry through his work with The Buyer.
What does Terlato specialize in?
Terlato specializes in premium wine and food products, offering a curated selection that reflects California’s culinary and viticultural excellence.
Information sourced from industry reports and news outlets.
