Real talk: New York City restaurants are missing a golden opportunity by overlooking local wines. Despite a thriving industry producing world-class vintages, many Manhattan establishments prioritize international labels over state-grown options. Casey Erdmann of Fjord Vineyards calls it a “disconnect”—restaurants tout “local” food but ignore New York wines, which are often food-friendly and regionally rooted. The irony? These wines, made from grapes like Riesling and Cabernet Franc, could elevate dishes as seamlessly as any Bordeaux or Barolo. Yet, they’re sidelined in favor of California staples or European imports, a trend Erdmann attributes to consumer demand.
The problem runs deeper than mere preference. A lack of awareness has kept New Yorkers from appreciating their own wine scene. Before the pandemic, few visitors to New York State knew about its wineries. Then came lockdowns, which forced travelers to stay local. Suddenly, New Yorkers discovered Niagara Falls isn’t just a tourist spot—it’s a wine region. “Their minds were blown,” says Jenny Menges of Hermann J Wiemer. But this revelation hasn’t translated to restaurant menus. Even as the state’s wine quality has risen, the on-trade remains hesitant.
Production scale compounds the issue. Small wineries like Fjord Vineyards, which makes just 2,000 cases annually, struggle to meet restaurant demands. Long Island’s AVA is already maxed out on vineyard space, leaving growers to focus on direct-to-consumer sales. Yet, Erdmann sees a shift: declining global wine consumption could benefit New York’s producers. “Consumers want farm-to-table,” she notes. Fjord is now considering sourcing grapes from other growers to expand its reach—a risky move, but one driven by necessity.
Exports are growing, too. New York wines now reach Western Europe, Canada, and the Caribbean, with plans to tap into Southeast Asia. But the real challenge lies in domestic adoption. Wineries need to build relationships with restaurants, not just sell bottles. HJW’s partnership with Laut, a Michelin-starred Malaysian eatery, proves it’s possible. By pairing Finger Lakes Riesling with bold Asian dishes, they’re reshaping perceptions. The key? Producers must push harder, and the on-trade must embrace the shift.
Key points: Consumer unawareness of New York wines persists, small production limits scalability, and stronger on-trade relationships are critical for growth.
Key points: Consumer unawareness of New York wines persists, small production limits scalability, and stronger on-trade relationships are critical for growth.
So, how do we bridge the gap between New York’s stellar wines and the restaurants that could elevate them?
Questions & Answers
Are New York wines popular in NYC restaurants?
New York wines are less common in NYC restaurants due to lower visibility and marketing. Local producers struggle to compete with well-known international brands.
Why don’t NYC restaurants feature New York wines?
NYC restaurants often prioritize international wines for familiarity and higher profit margins, limiting exposure for New York wines despite their quality.
Information sourced from industry reports and news outlets.
